Full disclosure: Kona supplied Ben and I with their flagship Sutra 2012 touring bicycles for our U.S. West Coast ride in return for feedback (good or bad), photographs, a write-up here on my blog, and a video review (coming soon). All opinions about the Sutra are published in absolute honesty. I’ve put more than 1,500 fully-loaded miles on the bike, so I should be able to tell you what works and what doesn’t.
I wouldn’t agree to test anything that didn’t fit my criteria on paper first. The Sutra did indeed fit my criteria on paper for this, primarily a road tour of a developed nation. It’s been a pleasant surprise to ride and has exceeded my expectations.
Overview
The Kona Sutra has been aimed at the mid-range touring/expedition bike market, and has been in production for a long time now, changing little in design over the last few years. Rather than take a road bike, beef it up and add some racks, Kona’s designers started from the ground up, and it’s easy to see the results.
Put next to my steel Honky Tonk road bike, the tubing is far beefier, particularly the weight-carrying rear triangle; the wheelbase is longer and the bottom bracket lower, the top-tube sloping off towards the seat tube in a style recognisable from Kona’s mountain-bike range — all in all, a very different geometry.
The centre of gravity is nice and low, and that results in a pleasingly stable ride, whether loaded up or not, with the steel frame and fork eating up bumps and uneven road surfaces. It’s an extremely confidence-inspiring and comfortable bicycle to ride.
Build Quality & Components
Off-the-peg touring bikes often come with sub-standard racks, and cyclists often fit aftermarket racks such as those from Tubus. The Sutra’s rear rack, on the other hand, is a stocky-looking thing, rated to 30kg and rigid as can be — so far, so good.
Drive components are sensible and durable choices; Shimano XT rear mech and gearing with a Sora road triple chainring up front, heavy-duty 700c rims with 36 spokes on Shimano cup & cone hubs.
Stock tyres are Continental Contacts; no Marathon XRs, but they don’t make XRs any more. I swapped mine out for Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, which are quicker, lighter and longer-lasting, though pricey.
Braking comes from Avid’s BB7 Road cable disc brakes, whose performance is almost indistinguishable from the hydraulics I’ve previously used.
This choice of brake will undoubtedly offend a proportion of veteran tourers who insist that only V-brakes are reparable enough in the field to be worth considering. I’ve never used V-brakes on a tour, which speaks for itself, really. I’d choose the guaranteed stopping power of a disc brake over the potential inconvenience of having to repair a broken one. When hauling a heavy load for several hours a day, control and stopping power are pretty important things.
Kona have designed the frame’s rear dropout section to accept a disc brake caliper in a position that won’t interfere with a rear rack’s mounting — a nice touch.
Cockpit adjustment is never more important than on a touring bike. The default handlebar placement is somewhere between an aggressive road stance and the laid-back upright off-road position — a compromise between riding efficiency and long-term comfort. Kona have stacked the steerer tube high with spacers and added a reversible stem. These oversize components are easy to swap out with alternatives from the diverse mountain-bike market to extend or reduce reach or rise even further. The brake levers have adjustable reach.
The dropped handlebars offer a good range of hand positions and are suitably rigid for swinging front panniers and bar-bags around. Bar-end shifters keep the mechanical parts of braking and shifting separate in the case of accident and repair or replacement; bosses for down-tube shifters are present if that’s your preference. These are thoughtful touches. It’s thoughtful touches that have been the pleasant surprise with the Sutra.
Dispensing with a quick-release front skewer and seatpost clamp in favour of hex bolts is thoughtful — no worries about a well-worn Brooks saddle going missing, or a front wheel not locked to the frame.
A third bottle-cage mount on the underside of the down tube is thoughtful — carry more water on the frame, or substitute a fuel bottle to avoid messy leaks inside panniers. Multiple fork mountings for a front rack is thoughtful — rough roads may well need more ground clearance; panniers vary in their design and effective mounted position. Full-length brake and gear hoses, minimising muck and rust on the cable inners, are thoughtful.
Front-fork V-brake bosses, for the fussy and for last-resort replacements, are thoughtful.
Criticisms
What would I change about this bike? It’s early days yet, but there are a few things, as I can be a fussy bugger. I’d like lower gearing — a smaller granny ring and/or a larger top sprocket on the cassette — to help with the steeper hills.
[UPDATE #1: I’ve now swapped the stock granny ring for a 24-tooth Middleburn one (5-bolt ATB)*; it took 15 minutes, a 5mm hex wrench and half-turn of the front derailleur’s lower limiting screw. Much better.]
I’d like a longer fender at the back — tourers often come in pairs, and I’d prefer not to have my leading partner’s road spray in my face. The third bottle-cage mounts could be a little further back — no issues on Ben’s 59cm frame, but on my 56cm frame the front fender catches an average sized bottle’s mouth when steering. Very long-term tourers might question the durability of the headset and the modern Shimano 2-piece crankset/bottom-bracket combo, but it needs pointing out that few (if any) bikes will get round the world in one piece, no matter what setup you choose.
[UPDATE #2: Kona have taken these comments on board for their 2013 Sutra, which now features a Deore 48/36/26t mountain-bike crankset instead of the Sora. They’ve also fitted longer fenders. It’s very difficult to find any real flaws in the new bike — great work!]
There are a few things that would make the bike more inclined towards developing-world journeys. Schrader valves and valve holes over flimsy Prestas (though you could drill your own). A 26-inch wheel option might be an idea, though unlikely to actually happen. As Kona’s workshop guys tell me, wheelsets are so reliable these days that broken rims are less and less of an issue, but that doesn’t solve 700c tyre availability. Square-taper bottom brackets are far easier to find, replace and maintain, accept a wide variety of cranks and need no proprietary tools to be carried. 9-speed kit still isn’t commonly found outside the developed world, although availability is increasing.
Conclusion
But these are small points, and overall the Kona Sutra has grown into a serious contender in the mid-range touring bike line-up. It’s a thoughtful bike, stable, comfortable, capable, and with durability a priority. I’m surprised I haven’t seen more of them.
Full Sutra 2012 specifications can be found on the Kona Bikes website. Road.cc also have a review.
I always recommend test-riding a bike before buying it, wherever possible.
Thanks for the write-up Tom! What’s the tyre-frame clearance like on the Sutra? Could you rock wide (say, 2.1 to 2.25) tyres for occassional gravel-road diversions?
The fork is Kona’s tried and tested Project 2 MTB fork, with touring bolt-holes and braze-ons and sized up for a 700c wheel, so it’s certainly up for wider tyres. As for the frame, I’ve just measured and there’s just under 2.5″ of clearance, so you should be OK with 2.0–2.1″ tyres, although it looks like 2.25″ would be a bit of a squeeze.
Hi Tom, just for your info, Chain Reaction Cycles are now selling 2012 Sutras for £839, I’ve just bought one after reading your review and I love it, Thanks Tom
The 2012 Kona Sutra is £929 on chain reaction cycles. Where did you see that price?
thanks
I´ve seen it. I had a different configuration on my pc. thanks.
great review by the way.
Brillant — thanks for the tip! (Click here* for anyone interested in taking them up on this…)
Very good review.
I had a Kona in the past as a MTB. I always refer back to it, as the best off road frame I have ever had.
Got my 2012 Sutra in September of last year. Racked up about 2000km over the lovely British winter. Bought the bike after it fit my specs (tourer, disk brakes, decent racks and bar end shifters) for a trip I am doing on the US’s Southern Tier this summer. Have to say that the review is pretty spot on.
Gearing definitely needs to lower in my so called “b*tch” gear. Ill probably replace mine with a 24 or 22T.
To those unfamiliar… this is a heavy sturdy bike but it can take some hellish punishment.
Tip: if you do cycle in the rain be sure to wipe it off. It is naturally a rust magnet.
I bought a 2012 Sutra last month, only done a few hundred miles on it so far, but I’m loving it. Really stable and quicker than I thought. I’ve yet to load it up for touring, but I’m heading to Cornwall on it next month to visit a friend, can’t wait to let it stretch it’s legs. I’ve added a Brooks B17 and an Abus O-lock (needed some bodging), but other than that the only other think I might change is the gearing, as you say, the low end is still a bit high for steep hills.
I’ve just ordered a 24t inner chainring — will let you know how the swap-out goes!
IJust bought the 2012 Sutra and love it with the 24 tooth chainring. No problem for the switch and the change even if the ratio is quite different between the small and the middle ring. THanks Tom
Just want to add in a big thumbs up for (at the least the front) wheelset on the Sutra. Lost control coming down Cheddar Gorge in Somerset yesterday, ended up going into the rock face front wheel first at 20mph or so, front wheel is still almost perfectly true.
I second the thumbs-up after taking the bike through the dirt roads of the Northern California Lost Coast — not a wobble in sight.
Thanks for the review — very helpful. Any thoughts on how this will be randonneuring? Also, bit worrying to see the ‘rust magnet’ comment above; is that so?
dhawal. Ill put my rust comment in context.
I live by the sea (so there is a salt factor too) and took it out for 3 hours in the winter. During the last 2 hours it absolutely rained down on me and I got home in 1–2 degree C temps and just chucked my bike in the garage so I could recover in a warm bath. Did not wipe the bike down or anything.
Although the main frame of the bike is steel, it is largely protected by the good paint job. However upon opening my garage 2 days later some rust had appeared. Off the top of my memory: on the bolts that connect the front rack to the frame, on some parts of the chain that evidently didn’t have enough lub and on the teeth of the smaller chainset cog.
Ive subsequently cleaned the rust off, applied a generous amount of GT85 to the chain/chainset and put some petroleum jelly on the front rack connection.
I guess I just needed to be a bit more wary when subjecting it to the foul British rain.
Cycling for a full month in daily rainfall along the coast of Washington and Oregon, I haven’t noticed any unusual rust issues. I’ve kept the drivetrain properly lubricated (pretty much a daily chore in wet weather) — failing to do so would of course attract some oxidisation on the chain and sprockets/chainrings, although that’s nothing to worry about in the short term.
A couple of the steel bolts on the stem are showing a little rust, but this is to be expected given the conditions and is nothing specific to the Sutra.
Making sure that the steel frame’s paintwork is protected against cable rub would be a good idea in the long run too.
I don’t know what ‘randonneuring’ is — but if you let me know I might be able to offer some thoughts!
(Apologies in advance for a long post.)
Thanks Dan / Tom, for the follow up.
My primary worry when I saw the mention of rust, was the frame itself. The only bike I have owned before this, is the Trek4300D (2009 model, just before they switched to hydraulic brakes). I have to say I’ve not been very diligent in cleaning it promptly after long rides (no off-roading, btw), etc. Yes, it does catch rust around the nuts and bolts, and on the chain if not lubed well (or in time) after a cleanup. But it didn’t seem a ‘critical’ problem to me. Also, I haven’t really bothered to see if the nuts/screws that sit on the frame (those holding bottle racks, rear carrier, fenders) are rusting, and if they need to be oiled to keep the rust out.
So I was wondering if with a steel frame, I would need to be checking all the nooks and crannies regularly, especially on the frame around the nuts/screws. (Not that I have an issue with that; I just need to know what it takes to maintain such a bike. And ofcourse, develop the discipline for it.
) For that matter, even the paint aspect; due to an odd fall, or carrying the bike on a general luggage carrier rack on a minivan, or simply the constant rubbing of the lock cable, the paint on my 4300D has come off in some places. I treat it more as a cosmetic issue; with a steel frame, is that a real concern?
Am based on Bangalore, India — weather is dry for most part of the year, except ~2months of monsoon (about to start). It’s a bit like the Bay Area, California. (Hence the Silicon Valley comparisons.)
Tom — re: Randonneuring — the first few lines on this wiki sum it up well — http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randonneuring (Also see the ‘Time limits’ section.)
Doing randonneuring rides (upto 600kms for the first year or two; they go upto 1200kms), will be one specific aim of mine, with this bike. (Assuming I do buy it; at this point, looks like I will, in the next month or so.) So, my fitness levels aside
, wondering if anyone has inputs / experience on how this bike will be for such rides.
Finally — re: the fitting. Touring bikes like these (even from other known brands) aren’t readily available in India, so I can’t just try one out before buying. I’ll discuss again with my bike shop guy (he’s quite good
), but just thought I’d ask for inputs here too. I’m 6ft tall, and have slightly longer limbs (atleast that is what I think). I wonder if my 19.5″ Trek4300D frame is a bit small for me — Even after I put sidebars on the handle bar, to extend the reach a bit, and shifted the saddle back most of the way, I find that while riding fast, I’d like to push back a bit more in my saddle (Bontrager, what came with the Trek4300D). So I wonder if the frame is a tad small for me. Then again, while riding relaxed, I sometimes find myself sliding front to the tip of the saddle; so maybe the fitting is ok now.
The guy at the bike shop (and myself too) feels 59cm frame is what I need, but I just wanted to double check — should I be looking at the 61cms? (Certainly not 56cm, I take it?
) Note that ‘tweaking’ the fit later by changing some parts will be possible, but_not as straightforward as in other countries, as I may need to order some part specially, pay a higher price than one may normally imagine, etc.
Thanks for all the responses; very helpful, and much appreciated! -{db}.
Just a couple of points to add to my post above —
Re: the randonneuring bit — I would describe my randonneuring rides (yet to be), as thus — Will be looking at carrying upto ~15kg of supplies on the back rack (depending on ride distance). Don’t expect to use the front rack (atleast till I graduate beyond 600kms). As for the ride routes (atleast around Bangalore, from what I’m aware) — while they have good climbs and descents, they don’t really involve going up/down hills. So beyond some load carrying capacity, how good the bike is for doing decent speeds (30-40km/hr) on flat to medium gradients, will be an important factor for me.
As for actual touring — say few 2–4 day rides for the first year or so, hopefully going up to a week for the next year, and much longer rides after that, all going fine — yes, the classic touring capabilities would be important.
In my mind, I feel this bike might be a bit of an overkill for me for the first year or so, but after that, I expect I’d have grown into it. And also, as per the bike shop guy, this bike will encourage me to take my cycling to the next level (which I do want to, and hope I can). For the past 1–1.5yrs (out of the 2yrs that I have cycling), I have been doing upto 200km day rides, on my Trek4300D, fitted with a rear carrier, and fenders.
Thanks again for all the inputs. -{db}.
I think the Sutra will be ideal for you. It’s a solid bike, noticeably heavier than a road bike, so I might look at some faster slick tyres for the shorter rides. The gear ratios lean towards flat/medium gradients which will suit your description of routes very well.
As for sizing, my brother is 6’2″ and rides the 59cm. If you are long-limbed and want a relatively long reach, I’d go for this size. 56cm will definitely be on the small side.
Let me know how you get on!
I was so close to buying the Sutra for my trip but I had trouble finding much in the way of first hand experiences to give it a better assessment — no local stock to check out. In the end I went with a Surly LHT for the 26″ rims, solid rep and I could buy the frame to build up myself — lots of fun. Good to hear its treating you well so far, seems a solid bike.
Envious of the quiet forest roads you look to be riding at the moment, a polar opposite to the roads in Java.
The LHT sounds very similar to the Sutra in terms of overall setup, although (having ridden with an LHT rider for a couple of weeks) the Sutra’s frameset/fork is significantly burlier. Both great bikes.
Thanks Tom — appreciate your inputs! Looking at finalising the 59cm/700C; will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again! -{db}.
Hello,
I am trying to decide whether to purchase the Kona Sutra as opposed to Surly’s Cross Check for a trip through the Rocky Mountains… I am pretty sure I will need to change the chainring on either of the two, as I will be climbing a lot of high passes. I definitely need that granny gear… What would you recommend? Have you heard of someone putting mt. bike gearing on a touring bike? Trying to figure this out before I order it…
Thanks for all the great info!
My previous expedition bike had mountain bike gearing — an XTR rear mech/titanium cassette and a Raceface 22/32/44 crankset. That bike still has the original components with about 20,000km on them, even though I’m now riding the Sutra — extremely long-lasting kit.
The Cross Check doesn’t really look like the right kind of thing for hauling bags through high mountains, in my opinion — more like a utilitarian road bike. You’ll certainly benefit from MTB gearing for a mountainous road ride, and the Sutra comes with Shimano XT MTB gearing at the rear already (as well as luggage racks), leaving you to either change the front crankset from Sora to Deore/LX or similar, or just to change the inner chainring for a 24– or 26-tooth one. I have a 24-tooth Middleburn inner chainring ready to put on my Sutra, just need the tools to remove the cranks. I’ll post back here once I’ve made the switch and let you know how it went.
Hope that helps!
Thanks, Tom!
After hearing from you and talking to my LBS, I am 99% sure that I have decided to buy the Kona Sutra. One more question though: Is there anything that you REALLY don’t like about it?
Thanks for your help!
There’s nothing that I really dislike, no — just a couple of things that are sub-optimal, like the front gearing. One thing I can’t comment on is the stock saddle as I replaced it with my very well-worn Brooks. But I expect most riders do the same with their favourite saddles!
Glad to be of service and let us know how it goes…
I purchased the Kona Sutra from my local shop, The BikeSpot in Anacortes, WA. I’ll post a photo when I have finished making my adjustments: Deore triple crankset and Tiagra STI’s. Thanks for your advice, it’s going to be a sweet ride for the rest of my life!
UPDATE: I’ve now swapped the stock granny ring for a 24-tooth Middleburn one (5-bolt ATB); it took 15 minutes, a 5mm hex wrench and half-turn of the front derailleur’s lower limiting screw. Much better.
Was the drop down to 24t not too big a jump. When I contacted Middleburn they only recommended a 28t for this chainset
No — it’s now ideal for steep loaded climbs. No shifting issues at all. Very low gearing though — the 26t might be a good compromise if you’re unsure.
The 24 tooth works very well for me. I live on Vancouver island with lot,s of steep hill. No bit.….ing!
Kona’s 2013 Sutra has addressed the biggest criticisms of the 2012 model, mainly with regards to the gearing. Read my quick rundown here.
I have a 2008 Kona Sutra, and love it. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/charlietyack/3845918773/)
It looks like Kona have sorted all of the issues with the older versions, most notably the position of the rear brake caliper, and the very flimsy rack they used to supply.
I have had mine since new, and in over 10000 miles of riding have subjected her to all sorts of abuse. The hubs have needed a couple of services, but apart form that all is well. I have taken her off road, and she keeps up with friends on “proper” mountain bikes.
Touring-wise, she’s a fabulous bike — so comfy compared to any other road bike I have ridden. Which is the weird thing — so comfy on road, yet so agile and alive off-road. I am not sure how Kona managed this, but they’ve definitely managed to instil the bike with some Kona magic.
With the subsequent improvements, this is a superb bike, and certainly one you can use for practically anything!
Hey Tom -
You seem to ahve good insight into what they changed btw 2012 and 2013 on the kona… any idea of the upgrades/changes they made between 2011 and 2012? I just found a Kona in a 53cm after searching for weeks and its a 2011 — therefore ~30% off, which is awesome, but I want to make sure that all the great things you listed about the 2012 are there as well. Thanks for any insight!
Hi Amy,
The 2011 and 2012 Sutras look identical on paper — just the colour scheme changed for 2012 by the look of it. 30% off sounds like a good deal! Hope that helps!
I was wondering if your Marathon Supremes were 700x32 or 700x35. I’ve been looking to upgrade, but wasn’t sure if the 35’s would slow me down?
Also, what kind of panniers do you use?
Thanks
I tested the 32s and then went for the 35s for the tour. I noticed an increase in comfort due to the larger volume, which was more important to me than the *tiny* increase in rolling resistance. I’d suggest the 35s.
Click here for my full write-up of the Supremes. Hope it helps!
My experience with cyclestore has been extremely frustrating. 3 weeks after purchasing and receiving my Kona Sutra, I still can’t ride it. Firstly, they forgot to post a seat post and saddle. Then they said they couldn’t find it so I had to settle for an alternative. Upon receipt of it, I went to assemble my bike. I then find out the front wheel doesn’t fit in the fork. I contacted cyclestore to make them aware of the problem and was told to send pictures. After not hearing back from them, I chased it up saying I was getting quite frustrated and rightly so I think. They are offering me a black fork and seem to think that is a reasonable alternative/solution. A black fork on what is a blue bike that I paid over a £1,000 isn’t really a suitable alternative and I can’t believe they think it is! I just want to ride my new bike…
I’m sorry to hear about that. You have legal rights as a consumer — check out this guide. If Cyclestore don’t resolve your issue, let me know — I’ve no interest in providing custom to companies that don’t care…
Great review. Thanks for the coments re: 2013 improvements. I will be ordering my 2013 Sutra next week
Great review, and very accurate. I purchased my Kona Sutra 2012 last October when they first came out. I’ve ridden just over 6800 miles since then on it. I’ve been riding to lose weight, and still have 130 pounds left to lose. My only add to the review was that I had my LBS modify the gearing extensively for climbing. I have a 44–33-22 crankset on the front, and a 11–36 on the back. Even with packs, I can pretty much spin up any hillside now. Great bicycle. Anyone had any luck with testing the weight bearing load on the front rack? I haven’t run with any packs on it yet.
Thanks for your thoughts here — much appreciated. I too have swapped out the front gearing and am now running a 24-tooth granny ring. I haven’t tried loading up the front rack — would be interested to hear some reports…
Hi Tom
Thanks for taking the time to post a terrific review. I will throw in my 2 cents worth on some of the components. I totally agree with all the people who have swapped out small chainring to get lower gears…maybe the people that so the spec and ordering should come out and ride a fully loaded tour bike up some steeps. Maybe you lose a little snap to the shifts with a bigger spread but the comfort with lower gears is a must. I also applaud the move up to a Deore crankset.
I disagree however with the thoughts on square taper bottom bracket and really appreciate the fact that I am able to remove my shimano LX 2 piece crankset with and allen key. If I had to to I could change the external bearing bottom bracket with a pair of channel lock pliers. With a square taper bottom bracket/crankset typically I would need a crank puller (or self extracting crank bolts) and a bottom bracket tool and wrench. Also a pair of external BB bearings is far lighter than a square taper BB and when we are in third world situation I carry a spare pair.
As to the Shimano wheels: I have a lots of pairs of them over the years and have finally gotten rid of them all. No more loose bearing/cone style wheels for me. Last time in India I must of taken the rear hub apart 6 times to tighten up the 10mm allan bolt that holds the freehub to the hub. Another member of our group broke the freehub pawls and we ended up lacing the cassette to the spokes with a spare shifter cable and creating a fixie…try no coasting for a day of riding and trying to find a new freehub. The only thing that the shimano wheels, for touring, have going for them is reasonable cost and that is why they are spec’d on a mid range bike as the Sutra. I have switched all my wheels over to DT Swiss with the star ratchet system. No tools required to clean and service, the ratchets are replaceable and if you have to replace the sealed bearings in the hub they will spin like brand new…I could never do that with any of my shimano wheels. A worthwhile upgrade. And I don’t have to carry cone wrenches and a 10mm key.
To get even pickier I wouldn’t ride bar end shifters any more. I never liked having to have both hands at the same time out on the bar end shifters so that I could shift chain ring and a couple of compensating rear shifts at the same time. I have gone to mtb riser bar with sram shifters. The Sram shifters pull more cable per shift than shimano and as a result stay in tune easier and are less affected by dirty cable housing. Shimano has finally gotten their act together and gone that direction with dyna-sis but I think that is only available in 10 spd.
those are my comments. If you have the patience and a little technical skill or a good LBS that you trust, or some bike techy friends, then it is not that difficult to build a bike from scratch and get exactly what you want and the best fit. The Kona Sutra is as good or better than any offering from Surly or others but it still isn’t the perfect tour bike for me.
ride safe.
Henric, thanks for the insights, especially re the bottom bracket…I’ve usually been a die-hard fan of square-taper, but I can see how an external BB could require less need to carry extra tools. A very worthwhile perspective!
Interesting point about the BB and the tools. In counter-point, I think you’re much more likely to find a mechanic with a square-taper crank puller, BB tool and wrench in most of the world, and its this ubiquity which I’d prefer in the long term. I wouldn’t carry these tools myself, because a BB is unlikely to fail instantly — much more likely to deteriorate over time, i.e. enough time to find the aforementioned mechanic and a replacement square-taper BB.
That freehub bolt needs some real torque behind it — I’m talking about putting the wheel in a vice and using a seatpost or similar to extend the leverage of your allen key. That’s likely the issue with it loosening. Those freehubs are pretty much interchangeable between almost all Shimano hubs across the range from the last few years. But I am beginning to agree with you about the bearings…
As for shifters, I started out with risers and 8sp index shifters. Having moved over to drops and bar-ends I much prefer them. I can’t say why — one of those personal preference things I guess!
Thanks again for your comments — I think the overall message is that there’s no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to bikes, how they’re set up, and how you make provisions for breakdown…
Just bought the 2013 Sutra today, I put a 24 granny a Brooks B17 and brake levers on the bar. Did you keep the front stock rack or upgrade it and what type of panniers worked well for you. thanks jed
I removed the stock front rack as I didn’t need the capacity. 2 rear panniers and a bar-bag do me fine. I’d like to hear a report of how durable it is, though.
For panniers I used the Crosso Twist. These aren’t necessarily the best but they kept my kit dry for a month of rain!
Would you recommend the Crosso Twist panniers (which I saw hold 60L per rear pair) or Ortlieb panniers (40L per rear pair). I’m a little more familiar with Ortlieb brand, but I’m open to your recommendation. Thanks
I haven’t used Ortliebs myself, so can’t comment, except to say that they seem to have earnt a well-deserved reputation for reliability. The Crosso Twists have served me really well. I’ve only had one hole to patch, and that was after they were chucked about by airline baggage handlers! Check that they’ll fit your rack as they use a different attachment system to many panniers.
Would you put interrupter brakes on it?
I just bought a 2012 for 30% off two days ago. LOVE IT! Although, like your review, I will be changing out the cranks for lower gearing. As for the size, I generally ride a 55cm to 56cm road bike frame but the Sutra I bought is the 59cm. As I am short in the legs but long in the torso, it works really well for me. It stretches me out over the top tube and it’s really comfortable for me and I can still stand over it. I plan to put a Brooks B-17 on it and perhaps a Ragley Luxy bar (with possible retro thumb shifters attached at the brake levers, http://retroshift.com/store/products/cxv/ in the near future. Looking forward to a three state park loop in March.
Hi, great review.
I’m hoping to upsize the tyres on my 2012 sutra, but notice the WTB rims recommend 32c max tyre width. I’d like to put on schwalbe marathon 38 or 40c and I’m satisified the frame should accomodate these but concerned about stepping outside the rim manufacturers recommendations.
What consequences do you suggest I might face, if I fitted 38 or 40c tyres to these rims
I wouldn’t imagine you’ll have issues with a 35/38C, but much above that I’m not sure what will happen! I’m running 35C Marathon Mondials on mine with no issues.
I have 38 marathon plus tires on mine… I had to remove the front fender to fit them, but otherwise they fit fine on the stock rims. (I have the sutra 2011)
I had the same experience fitting Marathon Mondial 35Cs — they fitted the rim/fork just fine, but I had to do away with the stock front fender.
What is the main reason to go with a 38 over a 35 or even a 32…weight, terrain? I have Continental Contact 32’s on my 2011 Sutra. I am 220 lbs, load my panniers and these tires have been fine.
Usually it’d be for comfort on rougher roads (greater air volume at slightly lower pressure = suspension), and/or increased traction on unpaved surfaces (larger surface area in contact with the ground). You sacrifice a little speed into the equation. It’s really a case of matching the tyre to the demands of your tour.
Touring Kona Sutra is good as Trek 520 but those 2 bikes do not beat my old trusted Cannondale 1000 X I use in Europe. I do hate to use my Trek 520 for everyday commuting so I got someting more agile with disc hydro brakes so I can stop on dime if need it . Only modification is Schwalbe Marathon Tires and I did replace front Alivio derailer for Deore and install 52 crank because I do cover 75 km in fast bicycle lines on daily bases … Just want to ask , some idea to replace Kona freewheel body King Kong (Kona hubs 8 speed) for freewheel body better quality on my Kona Dew Plus I use in any weather condition for commuting ? Thanks for help .
I just bought a 2012 Sutra and love the bike. Do wish it had lower gearing in the front like the 2013’s. But the one big, yet minor, complaint I have concerns the front rack. There is a big flat bar across the top making it impossible to fit the ubiquitous Ortlieb Front Rollers without finding equipment to drill a hole in the bar, which I unfortunately do not have. The other option is to buy a new rack, but that, I have found, is difficult to find reasonably priced. Other than the gearing and front rack, a great bike!
That’s an interesting point — thanks, David. I’ll pass it on to Kona as I’m sure they’d like to know about the compatibility issues with the most popular top-end panniers in the world…
I actually passed on that info to them and their response was not at all one of concern. They seemed to have more concern about just having a front rack rather than having it be useful for a wide range of panniers, especially the most common and widely used panniers. I understand they can’t tailor to each pannier manufacturer but…
Perhaps this is more about the catch-22 of buying online? We can all go down to our local bike stores, test combinations of gear, and change parts to our satisfaction. It will probably cost more. But it’s up to us, not the manufacturer, whether we choose to roll the dice in exchange for saving money…
I didn’t buy it online, but rather new at a bike swap for half price being sold by bike shop, unfortunately they are out of town. Just a lucky find really. I really can’t complain, especially for the price, just a litte annoyed at the suboptimal reaction from Kona regarding my questions and concerns.
Perhaps what would be useful to get with an off-the-peg touring bike is a list of common pannier makes/models that are compatible with the stock racks? Hmmm… now there’s an idea…
As a follow up to my post on MAY 21, 2012, I wanted to share my thoughts.
In November I used my 2012 Sutra to cycle the Southern Tier from San Diego to Key West (3,407 miles) before Christmas.
Changes made prior to the trip:
30T chaingring swapped for 22T chainring. (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ta-74-pcd-5-arm-triple-inner-chainring/) ABSOLUTELY essential for crossing over the rockies whilst fully loaded, I dont want to even think of the pain that could have been. (64,000 ft was climbed on my trip)
B17 Special Saddle Added (http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/touring+%26+trekking/B17+Special/)
SP PD-7 Dynamo Hub added (http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/dynamos/SP_6/index_en.html)
E-Werk power converter added (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/ewerk.asp)
Added rear view mirror — great safety aid
Picture: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/pic/?o=1&pic_id=1431123&size=large&v=1
Luggage: 2x Ortieb Front Roller Classics / 2x Ortieb Front Roller Classics / Tent bungeed to back rack
I had also fitted an Ulimate 5 Plus Bar bag but it was surplus to my luggage requirements.
The Front Roller Classics cannot fit perfectly on the front rack (only 1 out of the 2 catches closes). This meant that they were 100% secured but they only came loose on 2 occasions (2 more than I would like though).
On the trip:
This was my first long distance trip, so I was not sure what to expect with regards to the bike. The bike performed very well… it was not flawless but thats because Im not a machine.
Bolts — I didnt do enough daily checks of my bike and every once and a while I would discover a bolt had shaken its was loose and had gone. This happened twice with the back rack (again, this comes down to my experience and Ill be making sure I do such daily checks) and to my front light.
Tyres — The Conti’s are fine if you are doing short rides… but they werent up to the long distance job. Wear and tear was normal but they couldnt handle the pieces of wire from lorry (18 wheeler in Americanish) tyres that you would pick up on the Interstates. The three of us each had different tyres.
Puncture summary:
Continental Contacts: 9 (1 thorn / 8 lorry wire)
Schwalbe Marathon: 12 (2 thorns / 1 glass / 9 lorry wire)
Schwalbe Marathon Plus: 1 (Lorry wire)
If budget is of concern to you, 20 of our punctures were on the rear, so at least get a rear Schwalbe Marathon Plus.
Mine were the Conti’s, I ditched one in Phoenix for a Marathon Plus 35 for the front and ditched the other in New Orleans for a Marathon Plus 28 to go on front (front 35 went to the back).
Overall Im extremely pleased with my Kona and its great to see they have taken into account the changes discussed on this blog as it will certainly make me interested in buying a 2014–2015 version. If they keep it up, there will only be myself to face blame!!!
Hi, I’d like to get one, but no local dealers have it so I’ll have to buy it online and of course I’m unsure about the size. I’m 1.80 mt. tall ( 5’11″ if I’m not mistaken), do you think the 56 cm size would be right? Many thanks for your advice.
I’m 5’11″ and the 56cm is what I ride. If you have average proportions I’d guess it’s a good bet.
Hi, Thanks for a very useful review and forum. I’m about to get myself a Sutra on-line. I was wondering if anyone could advise me on sizing? I’m 5′ 10″ with short legs (29.5″) and a relatively long torso. I originally thought I should go for the 53″ but am wondering whether the 56″ might be better. I have read some reviews saying that the Sutra can feel a little small compared to other frames due to the slope of the top tube.
Many thanks,
Matt
Hi Matt,
I would be inclined to go with the 56cm model. You can change the saddle height to suit your legs, but you need to choose the top-tube length to suit your torso from the outset. I’m 5’11″ with average proportions and ride the 56cm model comfortably, so I think it’ll be your best choice. If the size turns out to be wrong, return policies are usually forgiving due to the nature of the beast…
Hope that helps!
Tom
Great review Tom.
It pushed me into opting for a Kona Sutra over the Surly Disc Trucker. Pricing for the Disc Trucker is a bit cheeky here in Ireland at €1,499. That price doesn’t include fenders and racks, of course.
I couldn’t argue with CRC’s current €1,046 for the Sutra. I’ve opted for the 59cm model to accommodate my 6’1″ frame and orangutan arms.
UPDATE: 59cm model fits my 6’1″, log-armed frame perfectly.
Thanks Brian!
Thanks for the help in deciding to buy a Sutra, it’s awesome. Paid 970EUR from Chain reaction for the 2012 model including delivery. Very pleased with the purchase so far. Took it out for a 40km trip the other day with the complimentary allen keys chain reaction put in the box.
I live in the south of France, so it’s quite hilly round here and I’ll definitely be looking to change to a lower ring on the front. Planning a few longer rides round here in the foothills of the Alps and also planning a weekend ‘en famille’ doing the Toulouse->Sete leg of the Canal du Midi, which is 250kms but fairly flat. Be good to see how it copes loaded up with camping gear.
So, definitely a good choice, and I’ve sold my Trek 2.3 Alpha which is no longer going to be used.
Cheers…/Robbo
Hi Tom,
Like you, i can say more good thing about the Sutra. Me and my wife, did 2 years 28k tour with 2 Kona and it just solid.
Tailwind to all
Louis-P
On Roule La Boule
Fantastic — 28k is a lot more than I’ve racked up! Great to hear it’s a good performer in the ultra-long-haul!