The End

‘What was it Mark said three and-a half years ago?’ I joked to Tenny. ‘Cycle on the left, cycle on the left, cycle on the left . . . or die!’ And with that we rolled off the ferry and onto the British mainland. There was no turning back now:…

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I don’t want to spend the rest of my life trying to get one over on my younger self

I return from the quiet spot at the far end of the beach with my video camera. It is almost completely dark, and the soldiers have set up camp in one of the huts. Unpacking my sleeping gear on one of the beach loungers some distance away, I notice a…

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I cycle east out of Aden, savouring every breath of breeze

Aden is a nice place, I think, as we race along the cliff-hugging roads in and around the crater of the extinct volcano that houses the city. This upwelling of rock off the south coast of Yemen is connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. Without this…

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Soon I’d ditched the traditional idea of being lost or found altogether

Mokha isn’t my ideal destination, but it ends up being the first available boat ride. The port once gave its name to a variety of coffee bean which was exported from its harbours before more profitable crops like qat took prominence in Yemen. Five crewmen, a handful of passengers and…

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This is the very essence of adventure; nothing mighty or medal-winning, simply embracing the unknown

I was wrong about Hassan. On first impressions, I thought that he was just a particularly friendly vagrant who’d hopefully refrain from pinching my stuff. But I realise I’ve underestimated him when he reappears the following day and offers me a place to stay. Yesterday’s promised boat ride didn’t exist,…

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