Day 25: Up And Over

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An unusual weather window opens up just as I am due to cross the mountain pass back to Norway: it’s just below zero, and things are noticeably slushy. My routine disintegrates as things which should be frozen — food, camping gear, clothes — begin to drip and defrost.

Reindeer on the road

It’s a blessing and a curse; granted, I no longer have to worry constantly about my fingers and toes freezing solid, and I can stand around for longer if I feel like it. But at the same time I overheat when climbing mountain roads, my nights under canvas become increasingly soggy — and the roads treacherous with slick ice.

I climb towards the treeline and suddenly there is a pair of reindeer bumbling about in front of me. It should be a fairytale moment, I think, and in some ways it is: finally, here’s Rudolph! But in another way it’s just another couple of half-wild animals caught in the road, unsure what to do. 

As I approach, they look up, and then begin trotting away from me like sheep on a Welsh country lane, only more gangly and exotic-looking. Having gained enough distance, they stop, wait for me to catch up, have a little poop, and then begin trotting down the road again. 

This pattern repeats itself with comic regularity for about 45 minutes. Until I reach the Arctic Circle and stop for the obligatory photographic evidence to be collected.

Then it’s up above the trees and over the very modest 740-metre pass and on down into Norway. Had the weather been bad, this would likely have been the most risk-laden leg of the journey. But I plunge unscathed back down into cavernous valleys of wet snow and slippery ice, the road like a skating rink, typical Norwegian gradients harsh. I thank my lucky stars I opted to ride through Sweden instead of this, dramatic as it is after days of endless rolling hills and lakes.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

White out


Above the treeline

Road conditions: treacherous

Nordland mountains

Dramatic valley

Narrow mountain roads and trucks

Schwalbe bicycle tyres, Extrawheel single-wheel trailers


Comments (skip to respond)

6 responses to “Day 25: Up And Over”

  1. andy welch avatar
    andy welch

    HI mate,

    Enjoyed the 3 photos below you standing next to the signpost a lot.


  2. richard allen avatar
    richard allen

    The Arctic Circle photo should certainly be keep for posterity, if only to be enjoyed by your grandchildren!
    Well done.

  3. You’re soon coming to were I live, Bodø! 😀

    Good to see you’re on the right side of the border again 🙂

    1. Shouldn’t that be the left side? Or have I got my map upside down? (Just kidding)

      I’ll be in Bodo tomorrow, all being well.

  4. Patrick Bird avatar
    Patrick Bird


    Just discovered your website, really enjoying catching up with all your posts. A real eye opener. I will be following your progress with interest. Have you written a post about the tech you take with you to keep us updated? Safe travels.


    1. I’ll write up an article after the trip about the tech side of things — pretty simple really though!

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