How To Custom Build The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures)

Comments (skip to respond)

83 responses to “How To Custom Build The Ultimate Expedition Touring Bike (With Pictures)”

1. 

   Tariq

   August 11, 2023

   I bought a cheap Raleigh bike from Halfords in 2001, 26″ wheels. I used it to commute 3 times a week until 2022 when I took early retirement and emigrated to my ancestoral land in Kashmir. I shipped the bike (+spares) and have been using it to ride all over this beautiful land and have covered over 2000 km on it in my first year. I use cheap components (except Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres) and can repair every bit of this bike. Apart from brakes/rims/saddle/bearings everything is original. I’m planning a 1 year trip in nearby Pakistan: Islamabad, Lahore, Karachi, Gwador, Balochistan, Quetta, Peshawar, Kashmir. I’ll take in some cricket along the way !

   Happy cycling all and stay safe.

   Reply
2. 

   Jeremy Halstead

   April 28, 2023

   Wow — I really like my site. It’s my go to every time I am planning a trip. And let me start by saying that my trips are pretty tame by world tour standards. Before I mention mine, I will just add that my high mileage touring friends (up to half way round the world) ride similar bikes to me.
   My rides are predominantly 1000 miles + or — mainly on roads with a bit of off road (planned or accidental) and rough tracks that get rougher.
   My first tourer was a 1980s Reynolds 531 with rack mounts and I fitted it with a Shimano 8 speed hub overbuilt wheels marathon tyres and so on. Of course it was totally reliable and I only spent a little time pushing it up hills. As I progressed through my 50s and for no good practical reason, I decided that I wanted drop bars and Campagnolo gears and now have two tourers, the more extreme one and the one I will starting on my next adventure with has a 1990s titanium frame, basic carbon forks, a quill stem and relies on glorified p clamps to hold the top of the rear carrier and the Quick release to hold the bottom. My “heavy” tourer is all steel and more suited to 4 panniers. I have along the way built up and sold a Kona Sutra and build a more modern titanium tourer for my wife.
   Why have I gone down this route? Well I think it is partly because I just enjoy the positions available on a “racing” bike I like derailleurs and the feel and handling of “brifters”. The other thing is that I don’t cycle outside Europe so I feel that (should I ever need it most things can be repaired or replaced).
   So what am I saying here? Perhaps that a lot of non touring bikes, i.e. lightweight are actually quite strong enough for European touring. My more adventurous friends run a carbon disc braked gravel bike and a ten year old titanium bike and put in thousands of miles a year.
   One thing though I think we will agree on is Super Cs mine are all second hand apart from one that Carradice gave me (I think they didn’t like the idea of me doing LEJOG with non matching front panniers). They are just so robust and in my view easy to live with.

   Reply
3. 

   James Maher

   February 18, 2023

   Good on you for tackling this multifaceted issue.
   I agree with those who point out when sourcing individual components new from the various vendors, cost can increase significantly. For those so inclined I suggest purchase a bike with many/most of the components needed as one purchase. Then get the frame separately and exactly to fit your size, build preference, rack capacity etc. Both the sacrificial component bike and the frame bike can be secondhand.m It can be fun to search out the proper blend to make certain the components fit. If secondhand, the frame can be painted DIY or professionally. Or leave it as is to deter thieves.
   Purchase new as desired or when durability necessitates. Rebuild hubs and bottom brackets. Wheel building is not difficult and can save some coin while learning a new skill. Watch out for hidden issues like aluminum frame stress or interior rust on Cro-Moly frames. Learn about frame geometry. Take your time, get exactly what you need. Ride and upgrade in the training phase of your program. Enjoy the pride of ownership.
   “The best bike is one that fits” Bruce Gordon

   Reply
   1. 

      Tom Allen

      February 18, 2023

      Thanks for these detailed thoughts, James. I second the tip on buying a second-hand ‘donor bike’ to procure many components in one go at a lower overall price. My first expedition bike was largely the result of butchering three or four second-hand bikes over the preceding couple of years. This approach will certainly take you a long way down the bicycle mechanic rabbit-hole, but if you’ve already decided to build your own tourer you’re probably already there!

      Reply
4. 

   Hans

   July 6, 2022

   Hi Tom, fantastic build. I enjoyed reading every sentence of your article.
   I’m planning to build a bike similar to yours. Love your colour choice. Would you mind to tell me the RAL code of your frame colour?
   Best wishes from Germany.
   Hans

   Reply
   1. 

      Tom Allen

      July 8, 2022

      Hi Hans! The code is RAL1019 matte. Hope this helps and I’m happy to hear you enjoyed the article!

      Reply
5. 

   Pete

   April 10, 2022

   This is one of the best articles ever written, except one mistake: I would never drive anything else, then the legendary Rohloff Speedhub. 1 X 12 wears out quickly and this is the trend: Wear and Tear by Shimano…
   One Day, you won‘t get the 3 X 7 Drivetrain in your Shop. The big pizza cassettes are expensive also and wear out quickly. Also the chain, by driving diagonal. So, if you go for serious bikepacking and travelling, choose the Rohloff Speedhub. Pinion needs a special frame, so your tour is over, when the drivetrain is damaged and Kindernay is just new to the market. Rohloff is extremely testet, for more than 24 years now. I drive two Speedhubs for 34.000 Kilometers now and will never go back to derailleur drivetrain. But be careful: Don‘t let the Speedhub go down in rivers, take the oil change seriously, don‘t get the oil change screw let go to deep and use an expert for building the wheels. Then you have the best drivetrain for decades.

   Reply
6. 

   John

   March 19, 2022

   Hi Tom,

   great site.

   Regarding flat bars, as someone who always previously used drop bars, I have found (Qlabs) inner bar ends to be a great addition to the flat bar on my expedition bike. Now I have three hand positions, the outer bar ends (Ergon GP3), the flat bar, and the inner bar end, This last hand position is somewhat similar to the hoods on a road bike set up.

   As it happens I also fitted a second stem to take a set of tri bars with the pop up arm rests. This is not for aerodynamics but for comfort. I can change the pressure points on my hands, torso and rear end. It fires different leg muscles and just allows for variety and more comfort.

   My bike is a KTM Life Lontano Deore that I picked up new for €835 when it was a discontinued prior year model. Has some things I don’t like (hydraulic discs for example) but overall it was a complete bargain that I couldn’t ignore. Came fully fitted fitted with Tubus racks, Brooks B17 etc.

   Reply
7. 

   Stuart

   December 23, 2020

   It was great to read through this when I built my touring bike, but it’s funny how this type of planning comes undone by prices and availability of parts. For contact points (grips, pedals, tyres, saddle) I couldn’t agree more. I personally built a 29er as I’m happier on a larger frame, spend a lot of time normally on a road bike and had an old Trek 29er frame sitting around to build on. I decided on Shimano XT disc hubs with Mavic719 rims, 3x9 XT/Deore drivetrain with an 11–32 cassette. 

   The main suggestion I’d make to the “ultimate” bike is for a 90mm adjustable stem; The ability to shift riding profile quickly makes a big difference if you’ve ever suffered back cramps or stiffness. 

   Since building, I’ve also thrown out the Avid BB7s that fell apart somewhere in Myanmar and replaced with new Shimano XT M8000 Hydraulic… I’m so glad I did. When my old Trek frame snapped (was really just a flatbar road frame that dealt with a lot of punishment) I spoiled myself with a Lynskey Backroad. The only bike frame without a weight restriction. It was like going from a Corolla to a Lexus.

   Reply
   1. 

      Tom Allen

      December 28, 2020

      Thank you for the detailed comment, Stuart! I too used to have an adjustable stem, but once I found the ‘right’ position I preferred the added stiffness of a regular stem, especially with luggage on the front. As for prices and part availability, it can certainly take time to get everything together… my friend Richard at Oxford Bike Works buys parts in bulk whenever they become available for that reason… bike manufacturers also get access to different supply chains than us consumers, which can also be frustrating… a friend of mine once bought a complete second-hand bike just to strip the parts and build up a different frame. I think he saved a lot of cash by doing so!

      Reply
8. 

   oamorfo

   October 23, 2020

   muito bom , detalhado e criterioso

   Reply
   1. 

      Tom Allen

      October 24, 2020

      Thank you!

      Reply
9. 

   Hélder D.Sousa

   October 9, 2020

   Hi Tom.
   First let me congratulate you on the article for being very complete and detailed for anyone who is starting to ride a bike and starting touring, which is my case. I just wanted to know if you would see any advantage and disadvantage in using a 9‑speed Cassette 11–34 on that bike, instead of the one you used 8‑speed 11–34 with Mega arrangement from 26 to 34 since they require a 30.8% change . Would you have to change Shimano Ultrega shifters too?
   Do you currently think that it would be feasible to take a sightseeing trip with Shimano Acera groupset?
   Good expeditions and best regards!

   Reply
   1. 

      Tom Allen

      October 11, 2020

      Thank you for the kind words, Hélder! In response to your questions: the main advantage to an 8sp drivetrain IMHO is a thicker and more durable chain, as well as easy-to-find spares in basic bike shops the world over. The Megarange cassette simply provides one very low hill-climbing gear; the step-down ratio is not important here. For the shifters, you always need to match indexed shifters to the drivetrain, but non-indexed (friction) shifters are much more widely compatible. Finally, there should be no problem using Acera components for a tour. Hope this helps!

      Reply
10. 

    Charlie Morgan

    June 8, 2020

    A Different Approach
    First, Tom, let me congratulate you on your excellent website.
    I’ve been cycling since childhood and still enjoy it as much as ever. I am somewhat dismayed by the commercial hijacking of what was once very affordable. With thoughts of competing in time trials in my late teens, I built a suitable bike with what I could afford, based around a new Claud Butler track frame. That item cost £10–10-6d in 1968 and whatever price index increases you apply, the costs of bicycle components have grown disproportionately.
    At 69, I now indulge in very gentle touring and prefer to set up camp in a suitable location and explore from there. The last time was in Brittany, although a previous trip to France took me down a fair bit of the Loire Valley.
    My bike is a Dahon Vitesse, yes, a folding bicycle, which I would find very hard to part with. Yes, there are disadvantages, but equally, it can be a great travelling companion when using trains, etc. Its strength was demonstrated when I hit a verge when freewheeling downhill (trying to get a fly out of my sunglasses!). I went end over end, landing on my back and breaking a chunk out of the back of my helmet. The bike was undamaged, apart from the front (singlewall rim) running slightly out of true!
    It has become something of a “Trigger’s Broom” over the ten years I have owned it and some may find the modifications interesting.
    The first thing to go was the over-large (52t) front chainring. Through a couple of iterations I am now using an unbranded, but perfectly serviceable, 165mm crankset with a 34t stainless chainring.
    In a moment of weakness, I swapped the wheels for a set of stronger, double-wall, 36 spoke wheels, with the enhanced option of using a rear cassette with more than 7 speeds. It’s currently got an 11–32 cassette in combination with a Shimano Alivio rear mech. The original rear mech would only accommodate 28 teeth and the upgraded version is a silly price for what you get. It was easier to change the hanger. A couple in France questioned my lack of high gearing. I like freewheeling. Some searching has equipped me with a friction thumbshifter. The cage’s proximity to the ground was only ever a problem on a rack on an Irish train. My fault — I should have folded it instead of being lazy.
    I have also swapped the original bottom bracket for a sealed bearing Shimano clone. Finally, transmission-wise, the original folding pedals were both poor and flimsy and I now use a pair of Wellgo alloy platforms, with Jtek pedal extenders. I’m a fair-weather and minimalist sort, so sandals are my preferred choice for cycling and walking.
    I have also opted for Schwalbe Kojacks and have had no punctures since. There is no danger of getting grit lodged in the tread.
    Cockpit-wise, the Handlebars have been through several iterations, including wobbly butterflies and slightly shortened bullhorns. I’m now back to straight bars with Velo Ergogel Lock grips. This is partly for ease of folding, although I find the straights as comfortable as any others I’ve tried. Another folder advantage is that you can easily raise the bars for a while to take some load off the wrists.
    The saddle is a matter of increasing concern with the passing years. Until recently I used a Selle SMP TRK, which was pretty good. I was on the verge of going for a B17 but instead opted for a Spongy Wonder noseless device. Rather weird, but no complaints so far.
    I’ve never liked the feel of vee brakes, although their logical engineering appeals. I now use Tektro CR720 cantilevers with suitable levers. The pedal extenders have the secondary advantage of keeping heels clear of the long brake arms.
    I had front and rear racks, but have recently removed them and disposed of my panniers and in keeping with my minimalist ways I plan to use bikepacking luggage for future trips.
    The whole accent has been on suitability and reliability. Folders are not from another world, There is a lot of interchangeability.

    Reply
    1. 

       Gillian Mcloughlin

       June 9, 2020

       Charlie — you may be interested to know that Tom did a bit of touring on a Tern Link p24h — very similar to your Dahon ! Tern is the company of the son of one of the Dahon folk. I bought that bike after I read Tom’s report. Here’s the link — http://tomsbiketrip.com/folding-touring-with-the-tern-link-p24h-possible-practical-really/

       Reply
       1. 

          Tom Allen

          June 10, 2020

          Thanks for flagging that post up, Gillian! Yes, Tern/Biologic belongs to Joshua Hon, son of the Dahon founder. I had the pleasure of visiting their factory and office in Taiwan a few years back. A very forward-thinking company who make some very well thought out folding bikes!

          Reply
11. Easter Has Arrived, Let's Celebrate! - BIKEGOALS

    April 22, 2020

    […] Building a bicycle from scratch […]

    Reply
12. 

    adam

    April 6, 2020

    Great article and I love you commentary on the tiny incremental weight savings at the sacrifice to longevity. I am leaning more towards the thorn nomad MK3 but the oxford looks like a great bike also.

    Reply
13. 

    James E.

    February 24, 2020

    Great write-up! I read your book back in 2016, and on your advice I built my touring wheels with Shimano LX hubs. But I went with an old pair from around 1990. Back then Shimano LX had rubber dust caps (I don’t know when they stopped including them, and I sure as hell don’t know why). You can find unused hubs from this era on EBay. I got mine for $60.

    Those older hubs are 8 speed, but I agree with you that this is the way to go. Aside from simplicity, they are easier to clean, and most importantly an 8 speed drivetrain does not wear out as fast – particularly the chain. 

    A note on gearing – I am very sensitive to Q‑factor (the distance between pedals) so I cannot use a triple crank. Hence I don’t achieve the low gear ratios that you do. But I’ve found that I don’t mind. If I cannot make it up a long steep hill, I just get off and walk. After hours on the bike it’s good to get off and stretch, and not much time is lost. Of course a reasonably low gear ratio is sensible, but you don’t need gearing low enough to pedal up every hill that comes your way.

    Reply
14. 

    Alessandro Caputo

    February 23, 2020

    Hi Tom,

    I’m obsessed of chain wear: I used 9 speeds KMC chains (for E bikes!), but now, after a disappointed chain wear of about 2000 km (though lubing them every 180/200 km with the Finish Line Wet Conditions) I want to try 2 Wippermann Connex 9SX chains to be swapped every 1000 km as two guys use to do on this blog:

    https://nomadstrails.com/follow-our-chain-wear/

    So what is your experience with the Connex chains so far?

    Reply
15. 

    Scott

    November 5, 2019

    I have a high end touring bike now but considering touring more remote areas (India) where it will not be possible to buy an 11 speed chain and I’ve been pondering what components I should have. 

    Great article. Loved all the detail. Thanks.

    Reply
16. 

    Erin Coye

    September 6, 2019

    You are a KISS fan:

    8sp friction with a triple is such a wonderfully flexible combo and an incredible value.
    Schrader drilled 26in rims.
    Square taper BB unless dealing with folding/break apart bikes.
    Mmm rim breaks. I might switch to external locking disc rotors on my next folding bike just because the BB tool and the locking tool are the same.

    Take a look at the Sun Race 12–34 cassette vs Shimino 11–34. I find the ratios are just better.

    Reply
17. 

    Keith

    August 16, 2019

    Hi Tom,
    Love the tutorial and the build! I am wondering about transport of your rig and gear. While I understand that you live in England and so Europe is a simple Chunnel ride away most of us do not have that luxury. We have to pack our bikes and gear up and check it on the airplane to get to where the fun and adventure is. For this reason I am wondering if you have ever considered folding or pack able bikes such as Montague, Dahon, Fuji Marlboro, old Montague biFrame, Richie Breakaway, or S&S bikes? There are many examples of people using and loving these bikes on long adventures like yours. I am an avid lover of Montague bikes because they are full size, infinitely configurable with all the standard world wide parts you mention in this article. You can find the old hummer version for a reasonable price online all the time. I know that they are hard to come by in England as they are highly desired. I own three of these bikes. Two I have configured as trail mountain bikes and can swap the tires from slicks for paved paths and knobbies for some pretty hardcore single track. The third is my road bike with 700c wheels, carbon drop bars, carbon road fork, carbon seat post, and SRAM 2×10 drive train. Contrary to what most people think these bikes are as stable as any hard tail on the market. They are aluminum frames which when stripped down to bare frame, only weigh around 8lbs. If you go to the Montague website there is a posting of a Russian guy that did a bike packing Eastern Russia on the Paratrooper Pro. I bring this one up because it also incorporated a pack able kayak. Way COOL! I have also considered the S&S coupler route because you can take a bike such as yours and add the couplers which then allow the bike to come apart and fit in a 26x26x10 travel case which by the way is 62 inches and can be checked as a normal bag as long as it doesn’t weigh more the 50lbs. My last trip with my Hummer the bag with bike and everything in it was 43lbs. Granted all of these options require disassembly and reassembly but last time I checked a bike on a major airline was $175.00 one way. I know I spent a lot of time on the Montague bike and I do not work for them. This is just the bike I have a lot of experience with and plan to do a lot more traveling with. So I was hoping you could share some of your best travel tips for shipping and transporting your bikes to all the wonderful places you go.
    Cheers!

    Reply
18. 

    Karen Alga

    July 7, 2019

    Hi Tom, really good recommendations and timeless guide. I just wonder why not front dynamo hub and lights? Probably intention is to only ride with daylight but you never know. And even if not for lightning, there are options for also charging via USB. Thanks.

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       July 11, 2019

       Hi Karen! Being on the road in the dark is the single best way to put yourself at serious risk when you’re travelling, so most tourers avoid it like the plague. For the unavoidable occasions when you have to, however, it’s much simpler and cheaper to put a couple of battery powered LED lights on your bike. USB power on the go is useful if you’re navigating with a smartphone, but not everyone does that. For both of those reasons I would not consider a dynamo hub an essential piece of equipment. A popular upgrade for many, for sure, but not essential. Hope that makes sense!

       Reply
    2. 

       Brian Bassett

       April 27, 2020

       Very true.

       Full suspension mid-drive ebike and trailer evolution
       https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

       Reply
19. 

    Fatih Aksoy

    June 2, 2019

    There are a few things I would disagree. Biggest one would be you are choosing 8 speed. I toured around the world 8 times. And I know you would definitely have problems around Himalayas and Karakoram. Not just with speed issues.

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       June 3, 2019

       Thanks for your comment, Fatih. Would you care to let us know what problems you think an 8‑speed drivetrain would create? I only ask because dozens of people have now cycled round the world on bikes built to this specification, and I haven’t yet had any such feedback. So it would be useful to know the reasons for citing it as a potential issue. Cheers!

       Reply
20. 

    ross

    March 14, 2019

    Hi!
    I’ve just bought some shimano bar end shifters and thumb brackets to fit them on to the bars as the set up above. Anyone know of any videos/instructions on how to fit them?

    Reply
21. 

    Peter

    March 12, 2019

    I’m on my second traveling bike build, The first was built area dawes reddle which I rebuilt with xt parts and had a nice bob yak and a rack as I had suspension forks on it.. That was sold to fund another trip..
    Now onto a new build based on a CUBE attention frame set.. xt again and botranger wheels.. surly Front forks (suspension turned out a bad idea last time) which have been added braze ons for front rack.. (surly again) and a blackburn rear rack. A 9 speed gear along with BB7 brakes to provide good service (same as I used on the DAWES). As I’m based in the UK my bike will be used for camping trips with on and offroad sections to make the journey Fun.…. well see how this one works out 🙂 aluminium frame again 🙂

    Reply
22. 

    Bill McCown

    March 2, 2019

    Just an aside note. The expedition bike could be considered to be the bicycle equivalent of the Toyota Land Cruiser, or perhaps the Land Rover Defender, when in stock form. In custom form, I’d liken them more like a Unimog, or perhaps a good mule.
    Something else that doesn’t get mentioned about bicycle touring is that when touring in a group, that one rider can become the designated “mule” of the group to carry extra stuff beyond their own to help riders who may be struggling. This sometimes also means they carry spare parts. This places more emphasis on having an expedition style bike. A secondary, and social, advantage is that generally the mule will wind up riding slower than others in a group, and hence can keep the person who is struggling company. I’ve been on rides where the leaders of the group often leave those struggling behind to fend for themselves, which usually means that the stragglers won’t want to continue with the pastime. If one takes on the responsibility to lead a tour, they should be caring for the others of their pack, just as wolves do. In a wolf pack, the alpha male usually travels behind the rest of the pack to make sure it doesn’t become scattered, and to protect the weak and old from any dangers coming from behind. This is the perfect position for an expedition touring bike on a group tour. Any thoughts on touring etiquette?

    Reply
23. 

    Robert Palmer

    February 24, 2019

    Hi Tom,

    Your blog has such an abundance of information and encouragement, thank you! 

    I have a steel framed hybrid bike that I am hoping to convert for some touring, initially around europe and potentially further. I wanted to ask your opinion on touring racks that are designed to fit onto the quick release skewer. Reputable brands like blackburn offer the outpost front world touring rack.

    http://www.blackburndesign.com/en_eu/racks/front-racks/outpost-front-world-touring-rack.html

    For the rear I was looking at the Axiom streamliner disc dlx, which I have seen a lot of positive reviews for, admittedly not for touring though.

    https://www.axiomgear.com/products/racks/streamliner-racks/streamliner-disc-dlx/

    As you might have guessed I dont have an abundance of eyelets. One set on the rear and none on the front for a rack.

    If you could spare a minute I would really appreciate your feedback. 

    Many thanks,

    Rob

    Reply
    1. 

       Robert Palmer

       February 24, 2019

       I would also add, Blackburns rear equivalent also can be fitted to the quick release.

       http://www.blackburndesign.com/en_eu/racks/rear-racks/outpost-rear-world-touring-rack.html

       With such a well known touring brand offering these products, I would think I can have faith in them?

       Reply
       1. 

          Tom Allen

          February 25, 2019

          Yes, Blackburn have a very good reputation. This rack looks pretty similar to the Logo I mentioned in my other reply.

          Reply
          1. 

             Alessandro

             September 18, 2019

             Hi Tom, and thanks for your article!
             Chain wear has become my obsession: I made several tours in Spain, France, India, Tajikistan, Morocco during the last 7 years, with my 700c 3×9 speed bike (44 32 22, and 11 34 Deore XT cassette that now I’ll swap with a more reliable and maybe stronger Alivio CS 400 HG 12 36). I use a KMC 9 speed for e bikes (wrong choice the “E” model for a no E bike?), that lasted less than 2500 km, even by lubricating it every 150 km, and dry cleaning it (with toilet paper…) every 500 km, with new cassette and small and mid chainrings. Now, my question is: while on very long tours around the word, and knowing that in developing countries is very difficult to find good quality spare parts, how did you manage your chain/cassette wear? For example, by swapping 2 Wippermann Connex 9SX (or SP) chains every 1000 km, how many km is possible to do before chain and cassette replacement? For a long tour will you carry with you additional spare cassette and chains, other than the two ones I would use to swap? By the way, reading your article, my first step for long tours will be to try these Wippermann Connex chains. Will they last more than my KMC? Thanks in advance for your reply.

             Reply
    2. 

       Tom Allen

       February 25, 2019

       Hi Rob. My personal experience with this extends to fitting a Tubus Logo rear rack to my Kona Explosif. It didn’t have seatstay braze-ons and my disc brake calipers interfered with the dropout eyelets, so I used both the skewer and seatstay clamp adapter kits from Tubus to make it work. This setup lasted a very long time with no issues whatsoever, and of course Tubus’ reputation is second to none. As for the front, I don’t have any personal experience here, but for touring in Europe you might well manage with rear rack and handlebar luggage anyway. Hope that helps!

       Reply
       1. 

          Robert Palmer

          March 4, 2019

          Hi Tom,

          Thanks for getting back to me. Very helpful, I’ll move ahead with this setup I think!

          All the best 🙂

          Reply
24. 

    ross

    February 11, 2019

    Hi! Great resource Tom thanks! Building a tourer at the moment. For the shifters, am I right in thinking all I need are a set of microSHIFT SL-N08 thumbshifters? And if I wanted your set up of switching between friction and indexing on the rear, what else would I need? Thanks again!!!

    Reply
25. 

    Francesco Nardone

    February 3, 2019

    Just a note to say that TRP Spyre are available for MTB linear pull levers under the name Spyke https://www.trpcycling.com/product/spyke/

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       February 4, 2019

       Excellent tip – thank you Francesco!

       Reply
26. 

    Chico

    January 18, 2019

    Hi,
    I have an inexpensive Decathlon bike purchased 4 years ago — a Rockrider 300, still in excellent condition. It looks like a Thorn Sherpa or one of your OxfordBW jobs, but costing about 10% of the price, and it’s black… 🙂 

    Framewise & wheelwise it ticks the tour boxes — bombproof steel frame,
    26″ wheels, and, it’s pretty comfortable. The frame welding is surprisingly
    neat. However, most (all?) of the components I wouldn’t trust on anything more
    than local riding close to home, which is all it does. The cassette wobbles and the BB makes occasional ticking sounds. All this with < 1000 miles.

    The idea is to disassemble it down to the bare frame and have me or my LBS rebuild it using top quality gear: Groupset, wheels, brakes, headset — the works. My question is, pricewise, would that be practical, or, would it be similar money to just buy a new Thorn/OxfordBW/Surly?

    Cheers.

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       January 19, 2019

       If cost is your main concern, I think this is unlikely to make sense. The rationale for building your own is usually for the huge customisation potential, for getting to know your bike extremely intimately, or simply for the enjoyment of it. But buying all of the individual components at consumer prices usually works out more expensive. Bike manufacturers, on the other hand, get trade discounts on parts and this tends to bring the overall cost of the bike down, even with the extra labour and logistics involved.

       As for the Rockrider 300, you can expect the quality of the frame to match that of the components! 🙂 this just might not become apparent for a while…

       Reply
27. 

    Brian Bassett

    May 10, 2018

    All your suggestions and recommendations have been being regurgitated for a while now, perhaps decades. I started looking at assembling an expedition grade tour bike in 2015. I read everything I could find on the subject. I agree with everything on “your” list but didn’t want to stop there. You tout reliability as the primary factor in touring, and I agree that no one wants to break down. But technology and reliability have advanced to the point that not only front suspensions but also rear suspensions should be standard on the Ultimate Expedition Tour Bike (UETB). For years disc-brakes were shunned by riders and now without a doubt are far superior performing and more reliable. I chose a Rohloff Speed-hub for performance, durability, reliability, looks, it quiet and I think it even smells better. I know it’s easier to keep clean and serviceable. Was surprised you didn’t suggest one. Also a dynamo hub, almost necessary now with all the toys we take riding. I agree that racks are absolutely necessary but don’t want an add-on rack even if I get to glue the bolts on. I have never seen a bolt-on rack that I thought was adequate. The (UETB) should have an integrated rear rack that can take twice the weight you want to carry. The front rack should suspend the weight in the panniers so it doesn’t get rattled to pieces on a 70-mile washboard. As you can imagine this type of rack is rare, check the Faiv Hoogar. We do agree on headsets with Chris King but I suppose it more because I think it is still the best you can find. I went with 26″ X 2″ after riding in mud for a couple hundred miles. The old thought went that 26″ wheels were the most easily found anywhere you might be. That may still be true, but I chose 26″ because with full panniers they are way easier to turn and control in difficult riding conditions. Not much difference in rolling resistance with the extra 1/2″ width. A superior light and any bike carrying over 100 lbs. of gear needs a great stand. It becomes even more necessary when towing a trailer. So much more convenient than circling like a supertanker coming into dock. I admit that the level of touring that I aim for requires me to carry more spare parts than a 1970s tour bike would ever have to. I now took quite possibly the (Ultimate) expedition tour bike and mounted a 750W center-drive motor. My front left pannier carries full toolset, tires, tubes, pumps (tire, CO2, and shock), spare parts for brakes, shocks, front rack, motor parts and then I put Cuben fiber kilt and Dyneema poncho on top. That bag pretty much stays on the bike unless I am riding a fast single-track. You don’t drive a steam engine car now because technology moved on. Although it might be time to bring them back what with Li-ion battery tech. what it is. It’s also time to update what makes a tour bike and Ultimate Expedition Tour Bike.

    Reply
    1. 

       Brian Bassett

       May 10, 2018

       https://imgur.com/a/5n91De6 — Here’s some shots of my UETB.

       Reply
    2. 

       Branko

       August 4, 2018

       Agree on the dynohub and, price not being an issue, I’d probably go with a Rohloff. too (although mine is fitted with a 3x10 Deore/XT derailleur system). Dynohubs do have one downside, though; they’re not really field serviceable (short of Shimano’s dynohubs, which can be disassembled and reassembled, provided one is extremely careful not to break the soldered wire). Otherwise, if something goes wrong — you’re unlacing the wheel and shipping the hub away to the factory. I’d still go with one, but would either choose SON for their more or less bombproof construction and first-rate efficiency (just accepting that when it breaks — I’ll have to stay put and wait for a replacement), or top of the line Shimano ones for repairability.

       I’d add a frame mounted o‑lock to the bike, too. It’s just super convenient when making stops in front of shops, cafes, etc. Very useful if your touring bike is also your daily riding bike at home, too.

       I would avoid any suspension on a touring bike, myself. Front and rear suspensions require regular servicing. I do know mountain bikers who don’t service their cheaper front shocks and just replace them every few years, but if you want to keep them working properly — servicing is a must. This is not something which you can really do yourself without special tools. Plus, they undeniably add weight. While a touring bike is possibly the heaviest type of well built bike, there’s no reason to add to it without necessity. Every kilogram you will end up hauling uphill.It’s rarely necessary, anyway — if you go a bit slower, macadame and dirt roads are not an issue on a rigid 26″ touring bike. You only want suspension descending steeper offroad bits, where you lack traction with a fully rigid bike; but that’s easily solved by, well, walking the bike over the worst bits.

       Personally, I’d also go with drop bars but that’s more of a comfort thing; I actually replaced the flat bars on my tourer with drop bars, using brake levers which incorporate modified bar-end shifters on top of the brake levers (manufactured by Gevenalle) which is a rather nifty solution and quite bombproof. Flat bars generated some hand pain for me on long rides. It you prefer a relatively low front end (I do), odds are drop bars will end up being more comfortable.… but again, that’s highly individual.

       Reply
       1. 

          Brian Bassett

          April 27, 2020

          All traditional old-school thinking, some good, some less good. A leather Brooks saddle is not the best choice for long-distance touring anymore (my opinion). I also didn’t want to ride for long periods of time without simple common amenities and being able to stay clean (me, my clothes, and the bike) while riding. 

          Full suspension mid-drive ebike and trailer evolution
          https://photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8

          Reply
28. 

    Simon

    April 1, 2018

    Hi Tom,
    I just ordered a new mountain bike, my first new bike in 28 years, and have been wondering what to do with my old one. Its nothing exotic, a 1990 Raleigh Massif MTB. Over the last few years I’ve updated parts using my employer’s £100 per year ‘environmental travel subsidy’. I was amazed to stumble across your website and find my bike is incredibly similar to yours! The frame is a lot cheaper, but also a rigid steel frame, brazed & butted, 26″ wheels, same tyres, drivetrain, brakes, grips, etc. I fitted Shimano SLX shifters (3x9), but still have the old friction ones. I use the bike for commuting, but now I realise I should be touring round the world on it instead!
    Thanks for the inspiration, I’ll definitely keep it now, and sort out those brakes so they actually stop the bike.
    Simon

    Reply
29. 

    Branko

    February 1, 2018

    Lovely bike, very well thought out.

    I have something similar (Poison Morphin, somewhat customized from standard), while I don’t exactly take it out of reach of civilization just yet (family obligations and all that), a nicely setup expedition bike is also great for doing loaded shorter range tours in comfort.

    Reply
30. 

    Yara

    November 26, 2017

    Hi Tom!
    I was wondering, what spoke lengths did you use for both the front and rear wheels?

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       November 28, 2017

       I can’t remember, but DT Swiss have a great spoke calculator to figure this out for any combination of hub, rim and lacing pattern.

       Reply
31. 

    Medawk

    August 24, 2017

    On the last photo your bike’s fork looks bent, like after a severe front impact. What happened?

    Reply
32. 

    Stephen

    August 9, 2017

    Hey Tom,
    you got a Chris King headset but a un-55 bottom bracket? That’s odd. I would have expected another King or a skf bas-600.

    Greetings

    Reply
33. 

    Karl

    July 15, 2017

    Hi Tom,

    what a wonderful website you got here, loads of useful information for me as a beginner in long term touring. Thank you.
    I have one question. It seems to me you use quite a lot of spacers to rise your handlebar. Is that an issue? I always thought, the use of many spacers is a sign of a too small frame?

    Reply
    1. 

       Joe

       August 2, 2017

       His bike just have a longer steerer tube on the fork, so the handlebar can be set up higher. For touring, you need the handlebar at about the same level as your saddle as you need to be comfortable during many hours on the bike (if you check the Surly LHT, it also has a lot of spacers). More aggressive/racing bikes can afford to have a lower handlebar, and hence less spacers. 

       Still, no matter what kind of bike, I always prefer to have a longer steerer tube and many spacers. There’s always time to cut it down if needed. If it’s too short, it’s already too late.

       Reply
       1. 

          Karl

          August 4, 2017

          Ah, yes, makes sense. I always thought frame manufactures use longer steering tubes and move them up slightly to make excessive spacer usage unnecessary. Plus, I really never understood why they moved towards 1 1/8 inch ahead-style stems. 1″ stems were so much more comfortable for height adjustments. Nobody can tell me 1/8 of an inch makes a considerable difference for a steel frame.

          Reply
34. 

    James Einloth

    December 8, 2016

    Hi Tom,
    I am new to touring, but I’ve seized on a plan that I hope to carry out next summer: to ride the remote highways of northern Canada. It will be a radical departure from the car-choked suburbia I contend with every day, but that’s the idea. I read your guide “Understanding Touring Bikes” (great job on pictures and layout!) and am looking forward to assembling my own machine. While your emphasis on simplicity and durability sounds right for my adventure, my trip may differ from others in a couple respects. First, my trip will be extremely remote, so it is not a question of finding a bike shop with compatible spares — there will be no bike shop. I need to be entirely self-sufficient. On the other hand, my rides will be only a few weeks (< 3,000 km) duration. The roads are primarily “gravel” meaning dirt packed with small pebbles. But they are real roads suitable for normal passenger cars. I won’t necessarily die if my bike breaks, but I may be in for a hell of a walk. Any additional thoughts you might have on bike design for such a trip would be most appreciated. In return I will share my wisdom on merino wool. As a mountain climber I prefer it to other base layers because when it’s wet, it doesn’t feel as wet. At least on my torso. My lower half doesn’t seem to care.
    Thanks!

    Reply
35. 

    Gilbert

    November 28, 2016

    Hi! Amazing article,I love it. I have built my own adventure bike more or less based on the same logic before I read this. I have used a Giant cyclocross CrMo frame, with Deore cranket and shifting, Schwable Marathon Plus 622x35 tires and the original Deore LX canti breaks of the frame. It rolls fantastic : pavement, gravel roads, forest trails…

    Reply
36. 

    Marty

    November 26, 2016

    Hi Tom ,
    I see your running a 9 speed front deraileur on that bike but with everything else 8 speed . Hows that working out ? I ask as I need a new deraileur for an 8 speed tourer with a 42t outer ring and am having trouble finding one so I might get that 9 speed FD that your using .

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       November 29, 2016

       From a mechanical point of view there’s no difference between so-called 8‑speed and 9‑speed front derailleurs — it’s just how they’re sold. So you’re good to go 🙂

       Reply
37. 

    AlexD

    November 1, 2016

    Scrounge, scrounge some more and compromise,many a trip has failed or hasn’t even started because everything wasn’t just right. As nice as all this new gear is they didn’t make crap in the past. I recently picked up a 80’s vintage Maruishi TA 18, direct competition to the Trek620.
    What drew me to the bike was that it was ridden across Canada after its original purchase with no appreciable ware other than its owner discarded it for the next 30 years in his garage.
    Cost after new brake pads brake cables shifter cables, saddle, bar tape, tires and tubes, front and rear racks used, fenders water bottle cages and peddles, $400. And the scrounging continued until I found Axiom dry bags used once front and rear with two additional dry bags and a bunch of camping gear for $150. The guy bought them new for one ten day tour and never rode again.
    Now a tent a sleeping bag a camp stove and I’m gone.
    It took a while to find it all but the roads not going anywhere it’ll be there tomorrow or six months from now. All in I should come in under a G‑note, and after 1000km this season the bike rides like a dream. Soooo looking forward to next year’s summer touring.

    Reply
38. 

    Keith Wilson

    September 19, 2016

    Hi tom, how’s the bike doing? Would be good to have an update review? I have been looking for a new bike to build for some time and have got the frame list down to , surly troll, thorn Sherpa and Oxford bike works. How does Richards frame set compare?

    Reply
39. 

    Scott

    September 9, 2016

    Hi Tom,

    Great article! In fact the entire website has been a real help in the last few months.

    I’m currently in the process of building up a Surly LHT for a round the world bike tour and have been looking at crankset options. I see that the Shimano Deore cranksets are set up for the external bearing bottom brackets, such as the Hollowtech 2. 

    Do you see any advantage of staying with the older internal square taper bottom brackets, such as the Shimano UN55 that is fitted on your custom build bike?

    Cheers,

    Scott.

    Reply
    1. 

       Robin

       January 6, 2017

       Hey Scott, good luck with the tour! I started out with a very second hand square bracket (from a second hand bike in Australia that was apparently found in a ditch) when I did a 10,000 mile ride through Asia a few years ago. The square bracket died after a few thousand miles and was replaced by a hollowtech. But then that broke quite quickly too. I don’t know if the installation was duff, or what, but I’m not too keen on the hollowtech as a result. I’m going to be trying the square bracket again.

       And Tom, thanks for the enormous trove of information. I’m inspired to start building a new tourer. Cheers!

       Reply
40. 

    Gabriel

    August 24, 2016

    Looks really good.
    Just a nope for the “V‑brakes” and standard derailleurs.
    Unless you want to stay only in nicely paved roads.

    Reply
    1. 

       Tom Allen

       August 25, 2016

       Decades of bicycle tourers using rim brakes and derailleurs on badly-paved roads can’t be wrong – can they?

       Reply
       1. 

          Gabriel

          August 25, 2016

          I can’t choose to have my testicles protected inside a thick bone like a skull but I can choose to have a speed system inside a Hub and brakes that don’t damage my rims.
          And if you do just a little bit of research you will understand.
          But unlike the body parts in the bike you have the choice.

          Reply
          1. 

             Tom Allen

             August 27, 2016

             Of course. I’ve done 9 years of research, and this is my choice!

             Reply
             1. 

                Gabriel

                August 27, 2016

                So we agree about what choice means, just be careful with twigs
          2. 

             Lucas Muniz

             June 5, 2019

             Hello Tom, i dont understund the compatibility if the “microshift sl-n08” because evrybody says me that IS just for Nexus/alfine internal gesr if Shimano. Can u use It for a 8speed normal transmitió like your bike? It works the same for back and front derailleur?
             Shoud i use a Shimano ultegra 6480? Or i can use the microshift?
             Thankyou so much, Sory my english

             Reply
             1. 

                Tom Allen

                June 5, 2019

                Best to contact Microshift directly in case they’ve changed the design. Until last year it was definitely derailleur compatible.
41. 

    Stephen K. Seymour

    August 11, 2016

    Very detailed guide and useful tips. Thank you so much for the post. I think with this guide I’ll soon prepare for my first tour. Your bike is very beautiful, I like it!

    Reply
42. 

    Tommaso Savoia

    June 13, 2016

    Hello thank you for your very accurate description of all the bike details. I have a question: I red that you use a BB UN55 68- 113 (“68mm shell, 113mm spindle and British thread for this frame and crankset combo”). But the Shimano M 361 crankset is indicated to need a 122,5 spindle, so did you mistake to write or there is something (more) that I don’t Know? Thank you very much Tommaso

    Reply
    1. 

       ross

       March 4, 2019

       Just had the same issue. Installed bottom bracket to find the lowest chainring on the chainwheel is too close to the frame. I think the bottom bracket is too short. WIll be starting again

       Reply
43. 

    Ethan

    May 21, 2016

    Beautiful bike and thoughtful build! Thank you very much for sharing the detailed parts list and your thought process. I know that 26 in. wheels are more common around the world and are more compact for packing. That said, do you think 29 in. wheels, which offer smoother riding over obstacles, could work just as well, including for more remote areas? Or their lower availability and larger packing size will be a problem?

    Reply
44. 

    vincent

    April 22, 2016

    well I have not much money ‚I tried to build up a trek shift 1 ‚I put 4 to 5 hundred bucks into it ‚and well traded it in lost most money as well ‚but I have a trek dual sport 8.1 ‚I tried rigid forks wider tires on it but well that steel thing got me though .so I thought id try to just get a cromolly old mtb frame ‚which I got an 1991 Giant Butte fram delivered for 107 buchs ‚just ordered trek cro molly fork looks much like yours with braze ons for rack and fenders ‚34 bucks ‚so after reading your story I think ill just get the same parts for this build ‚but I am in usa so I will have bike shop build it ‚so I hope at last this will work

    Reply
45. 

    Steve

    April 17, 2016

    All good advice. I rode Marathon Plus for about 3 or 4 years on my old Schwinn mountain bike and try as I might I could not wear out those tires no matter what, trail or road. However when I did eventually put different tires on the bike from the same brand, I realized how sluggish those tires had been on paved roads because of the weight, They sure had built up my leg muscles but I think I’d choose something with a better ride quality for long miles in the saddle. Maybe Marathon Extreme ( pricey ) or the mondials you suggested.
    Lucky me, I’ve still got 2 sets of the old XR’s fitted on my touring bikes and they are still good for more trips. Ergon grips are great. I do find the cork to be a fairly soft material and not as durable as the rubber versions. Got some nice gouges in mine! they are comfy though!
    For shoes I can’t find anything more comfortable than Five Ten impacts, of course this depends on the shape of your feet. They don’t do well in the wet though, You definitely need Goretex on your feet for wet weather riding.

    Reply
46. 

    Shaun

    April 11, 2016

    There’s one reason to choose the Tubus Ergo low rider over the Tara. The Tara uses 14mm tubes in the hoop (10mm in the straight bar). Some panniers such as Ortlieb will require a larger lower clamp than supplied. Weight isn’t really an issue. There’s about 50g difference between them.

    Reply
47. 

    Joe

    April 11, 2016

    Excellent article, as usual! Thanks for all the amount of detail!!

    One tip from my side. The crankset chosen (as well as most of the square taper range in Shimano) can also be had with a “chainguard” for no extra cost, which is just an extra plastic ring screwed into the big chainring. Very simple, but extremely effective to protect your trousers, from own experience.

    Also, the lower range of Shimano comes with steel chainrings and not the butter soft aluminium rings of the higher models. Quite long lasting…

    Reply
48. 

    Oakland SPOKES

    April 5, 2016

    Great article. We have Surley and Co-motion both ends of the money spectrum for touring bikes. I think there is great merit to the DIY bike with Deore and parsing out parts. There is also a great rush in getting a hand made bike that has bomb proof carbon belt and internal Roloff hub technology fitted to a bike made for you .
    I go both ways … But then I’m a Bi-Cyclist so what do you expect… 🙂 

    Oakand SPOKES ( why recreate the wheel… When you can tighten the spokes)

    Reply
    1. 

       Fergal

       November 20, 2019

       Bit of a grave dig, but I was upset that no one had acknowledged your ‘bi-cyclist’ pun.
       Nice work 😉

       Reply
49. 

    Andrew Norris

    March 26, 2016

    Great advise there! I esp. liked the shifters, and the LX being better than XT. Plus the choice of plain gauge spokes for one side of rear wheel. Have you seen these re: protecting the saddle and wheels? http://www.hexlox.com/ Perhaps not proven yet though. I imagine for those taking electronic gadgets you would recommend a son hub as the most proven? Great to know v brakes rims last that long on tours. In the peak district mountain biking I used to have to change a rim once a year, but that’s very different conditions. On the frame, I was always told that 853 is best, at dints and strength? Great article. Choices in work prevents me touring long distance at the mo. but hopefully some time in the not too distant future. Despite that I like reliable workhorse bikes anyway!

    Reply
50. 

    Jamie

    March 25, 2016

    Nice bike!

    With regards to the pedals, Tom, you know you can get SPD shoes with sunken cleats? No more walking around supermarkets like you’re on ice-skates, no spare shoes, better power transfer — especially for hill climbing — and a bit of weight saved too!

    Reply